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When we first planned this trip, I told David that it was a journey from Southampton to Cape Town, but definitely no further! We would either sell ‘The Beast’ in Cape Town, or ship it home, but no way was I going to circumnavigate the continent.
However, during our trip down the East side of Africa, we met a number of people who had travelled down the west side and were on their way back up the east. Talking to them, we realised that the route was feasible, and not as difficult as I was imagining. I finally agreed that it could be done, and that was it! David saw that as capitulation, and we gradually started looking at the various possibilities which were opening up to us.
PLANNING
We needed to spend some time investigating the various routes up through West Africa, bearing in mind the fact that a number of countries are unsettled as they recover from civil wars, or have outbreaks of fighting at borders. We used the foreign office site (www.fco.gov.uk) for advice on the current situation in these countries. We also looked at the websites of other people who had travelled the west coast route (www.africa-overland.net). Unfortunately, most people have travelled in an anti-clockwise direction, so there was a lack of information on the route south to north! We eventually agreed on a route, but this is open to change if circumstances dictate.
VEHICLE
‘The Beast’ needed a thorough overhaul, and we were able to book it into a garage which specialises in preparing 4 x 4 vehicles for overland trips (‘JB’s Auto Repairs’ in Cape Town). Our friend Manie, whom we had met in Mozambique, very kindly offered to look after our vehicle in our absence and to deliver it to Johan for the necessary work. We replaced the rear springs, front and rear shock absorbers, rear brake pads and had some minor repairs made. We also replaced some internal light fittings for the Beast, and all four tyres, using the front tyres as spares. Manie and his apprentice (David) also replaced the water pump when we returned.
EQUIPMENT
Obviously, we have all the basic equipment for our trip. The only extras we needed to purchase were a new mattress and a cover for our roof-top tent – ours had become damaged when vandalised in Zambia and we found that it was very damp and difficult to dry out.
PAPERWORK
Our ‘Carnet de Passage’ had to be extended for a further six months, which was more complicated that we anticipated: the complex part was arranging for our bank to extend the bank guarantee for a further six months, but reduce the amount – beaurocracy! We also had to extend our vehicle insurance and our private insurance, which was straightforward.
We decided that most of the visas would be obtained en-route, but were informed that it is wise to get an Angolan Visa in our country of residence. This was very problematic, as the Angolan Embassy in London doesn’t answer the telephone! We tried to apply for a transit visa, but were informed that this is only for 5 days, and we would need at least two weeks. An ordinary tourist visa requires copies of bank statements, utility bills, letter confirming employment and also a letter of invitation from an Angolan citizen! It was the final item which had us stumped: we sent a fax to the British embassy in Luanda, to no avail, and tried to find out about Angolan tourist organisations. We finally remembered that we have a friend who has been a missionary in Angola for many years, and she was able to give us the necessary invitation. We had to present this invitation, together with a notarised copy of her ID card. Finally, we have our visas!
HEALTH
We both needed dental treatment on our return (it was a good thing David did decide to work, as this was a costly business!) We also checked with the Nomad Travel Clinic to make sure our vaccinations were still all valid. We obtained fresh supplies of Malaria prophylaxis, some further antibiotics and replenished our first aid supplies.